That was all the incentive I needed; I stood up and stripped bare right there on the spot; right in front of God and everyone on the beach. Leaving my clothes in a pile, I picked up the banana board and the two of us raced into the water.
The water was cold, but it felt so good and once we’d swam out a ways I couldn’t hear the people or the sounds of the city anymore. With Gary by my side we were able to swim out farther than the other surfers usually go. Mom and John don’t allow me to go out that far, but Gary and I always do. There are always some fantastic waves out that far plus the larger naval ships create some killer wakes that are fun to ride.
